Photography

Exposure Triangle

• ISO: double ISO = double brightness, but also double noise. Stay lowest possible
• Aperture: f/2.8 = shallow depth of field (blurry background), f/11 = everything sharp
• Shutter: 1/focal length minimum for handheld — 50mm lens needs 1/50s or faster
• Expose for highlights — blown highlights unrecoverable, shadows can be lifted in post

Focus Fundamentals

• Focus on eyes for portraits — always the nearest eye
• Back-button focus separates focus from shutter — press once to lock, recompose freely
• Single-point AF for precision, tracking AF for movement
• Hyperfocal distance for landscapes: focus 1/3 into scene, everything sharp at f/8-11
• When in doubt, stop down — f/8 is sharper than wide open for most lenses

Composition Beyond Rule of Thirds

• Leading lines pull eyes into frame — roads, fences, rivers toward subject
• Frame within frame: doorways, windows, arches add depth
• Negative space: empty area emphasizes subject — don't fill every corner
• Odd numbers: 3 or 5 subjects more pleasing than 2 or 4
• Break rules intentionally: centered subject with symmetry works

Natural Light

• Golden hour: 1 hour after sunrise, 1 hour before sunset — warm, soft, directional
• Blue hour: 20-30 minutes after sunset — even, moody, no harsh shadows
• Overcast is giant softbox — ideal for portraits, no squinting
• Midday sun: use as backlight or find open shade — avoid direct overhead
• Window light: subject facing window, not camera — soft directional light

Flash Basics

• Bounce off ceiling/wall — direct flash is harsh and flat
• Flash exposure compensation: start at -1 to -2 stops — blend with ambient
• High-speed sync for daylight fill — allows wide aperture outdoors
• Off-camera flash: 45 degrees from subject, elevated — creates dimension
• Catch light in eyes: small light source close beats large source far

Common Mistakes

• Horizon not level — first thing viewers notice is wrong
• Cutting at joints: ankles, wrists, knees — crop mid-limb or full body
• Busy backgrounds: poles from heads, distracting elements
• Chimping constantly — looking at screen after every shot instead of moments
• Not checking histogram — LCD brightness deceives, histogram doesn't lie

Camera Settings by Genre

Portraits:

• Aperture priority, f/1.8-2.8
• Single-point AF on eye
• +1/3 exposure for skin brightness

Landscapes:

• Aperture priority, f/8-11
• Tripod, mirror lock, remote/timer
• Bracket exposures for HDR

Sports/Action:

• Shutter priority, 1/500s minimum
• Continuous AF tracking
• Burst mode, anticipate peak action

Street:

• Aperture priority, f/5.6-8
• Zone focus preset at 3m
• Shoot from hip if needed

RAW vs JPEG

• Shoot RAW for editing flexibility — recovers 2-3 stops of exposure
• JPEG for volume without editing — events with hundreds of shots
• RAW + JPEG: preview immediately, edit RAW later
• RAW files need processing — they look flat by design, not a problem

Editing Workflow

1. Cull ruthlessly: delete obvious failures first
2. Global adjustments: exposure, white balance, contrast
3. Local adjustments: dodge/burn, graduated filters
4. Color grading: consistent look across set
5. Export: sRGB for web, AdobeRGB for print

• Edit on calibrated monitor — laptop screens lie about color
• Sharpening last, after resize — oversharpening destroys detail
• Less is more: if you notice the edit, you went too far

Gear Reality

• Best camera is the one you have — phone beats DSLR at home
• Lenses matter more than bodies — invest in glass first
• 50mm f/1.8 is best first prime — cheap, sharp, teaches composition
• Tripod: don't cheap out — flimsy tripod is worse than none
• One good light > three bad ones — start with single source

File Management

• Backup same day: 3-2-1 rule (3 copies, 2 media types, 1 offsite)
• Folder structure: YYYY/YYYY-MM-DD_EventName
• Rename files: YYYYMMDD_ProjectName_0001.ext
• Keywords and ratings during import — not later when you forget context
• Archive RAW files forever, even rejected ones — storage is cheap, moments aren't